Counting pavers is simple — area divided by the face of one paver, plus a bit for cuts. The parts people underestimate are the bedding sand under them and the sub-base under that, which is what actually stops a driveway rutting. Get all three and the job holds up.
The paver count
Divide the area by one paver’s face area, then add waste. A 20 × 13 ft driveway (258 sq ft / 24 m²) in standard 8 × 4 in (200 × 100 mm) brick pavers — about 4.6 per sq ft (50 per m²) — needs 1,200 pavers; order about 1,260 with 5% waste. Interlocking pavers lay tight, so no joint gap to allow for.
Bedding sand
Pavers bed on a screeded layer of coarse sand, normally 1¼ in (30 mm) thick once compacted. Area × depth gives the volume: 258 sq ft × 0.1 ft ≈ 26 cu ft, close to 1 cubic yard (0.72 m³) — add about 20% for screeding losses. Use plaster or jointing sand for the joints, not the bedding sand.
The sub-base does the structural work
Under the bedding sand goes a compacted sub-base — typically 4 in (100 mm) of crusher run for paths and patios, 6 in (150 mm) or more for driveways — over a levelled, compacted subgrade. Paving laid straight on soil settles and ruts. Size the sub-base separately from the pavers and sand.
Paver, Paving & Pavement Calculator
Enter the area, paver size and waste allowance — it returns the paver count plus the bedding and jointing sand for the job.
Waste depends on the pattern
5% suits straight (stretcher or stack bond) layouts with simple edges. Herringbone at 45° and curved edges generate many cut halves — allow 10%. Keep the offcuts: half pavers get reused along edges as you go.
Edges make or break it
The outer course needs edge restraints — a haunched concrete edge or proprietary restraint. Without them the border pavers creep, joints open, and the surface unravels from the outside in. Lay the edge course first, screed and pave between the restraints, compact with a plate compactor, then sweep jointing sand into the joints.